Study of the Effect of Weave Structure on the Mechanical Properties of Locally Woven Ankara Fabric in Kano State

Weave structure is a fundamental design parameter that influences the mechanical behaviour, drapability, and aesthetic characteristics of woven fabrics. This study investigates the effect of weave structure on the mechanical properties of locally woven Ankara fabrics produced by artisans in Kano State, North West Nigeria, comparing plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave constructions produced from identical cotton yarns. Fabric samples from each weave structure were tested for tensile strength in warp and weft directions, tear strength, bursting strength, fabric stiffness, and drape coefficient following ISO and ASTM standard methods. Thread count and crimp percentage were measured to characterise yarn interlacing density for each weave type. Results demonstrate that plain weave fabrics exhibited the highest tensile strength in both warp direction at 312 N/5 cm and weft direction at 278 N/5 cm, attributable to maximum thread interlacement. Satin weave fabrics recorded the lowest stiffness and highest drape coefficient at 78 percent, making them most suitable for apparel with fluid drape characteristics. Twill weave fabrics demonstrated superior tear strength at 18.4 N compared to plain weave at 12.6 N and satin at 9.8 N, attributed to yarn slippage at tear initiation points. Bursting strength was comparable across weave types but highest for plain weave constructions. The study provides weave selection guidance for Kano textile artisans based on end-use mechanical performance requirements, supporting informed fabric design decisions for diverse apparel and furnishing applications in North West Nigeria. Keywords: weave structure, Ankara fabric, mechanical properties, tensile strength, Kano