Traditional Textile Revival and Global Market Integration: The Case of Aso-Oke in International Fashion

The integration of traditional African textiles into global fashion markets represents a complex negotiation between heritage preservation, commercial adaptation, and the politics of cultural appropriation and exchange. This study examines the revitalisation of Aso-oke weaving in the context of growing international fashion industry interest, analysing the production changes, design adaptations, and economic outcomes for weaving communities in Iseyin, Oyo State, driven by global market integration. A mixed-methods research design is employed, combining structured questionnaires administered to 60 weavers and traders with in-depth interviews with 10 fashion designers, 5 export market agents, and 8 craft development organisations. Secondary data from export records and fashion media coverage supplement the primary data. The study examines how international demand has altered production quantities, product specifications, and design vocabulary among Iseyin weavers, and whether the economic benefits of international market integration are distributed equitably across the weaving community or concentrated among intermediary traders and elite designers. The theoretical framework draws on global value chain theory, craft commodification literature, and the cultural sustainability scholarship. The study engages critically with the concept of the fashion industry's appropriation of African textiles, examining how Iseyin weavers themselves understand and respond to global interest in their craft. Recent literature has identified power asymmetries in the value chain as the primary equity challenge in traditional textile globalisation. Findings contribute to the textile heritage literature and have practical implications for fair trade advocates and craft development organisations. Keywords: Aso-oke, global fashion, textile revival, market integration, Iseyin